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Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 ★★★★ The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. Thanks to a sliding mechanism the Giga Jul can be switched between regular and assisted braking mode. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. For trad climbing with double ropes you are usually going to have it in manual mode. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. The Giga Jul costs roughly the same as other passive assist belay devices, many of which do not allow for two ropes and are not ideal for multi-pitching. Most usually this will be with the device in brake assist mode. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Review ; Giga Jul Belay Device. We got our hands on the Giga Jul late in 2018 and have been using it since, both indoors and out. It is the versatility of this device that is its main appeal. Edelrid Mega Jul Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. Finally, the slider bar can be flipped to the opposite side and the device can be used in brake assist mode, for an easier and more secure catch and hold when belaying either a leader or top-roper. This is particularly the case in trad climbing where having flexible control of the ropes independent of each other, and the ability to take in and pay out rapidly as your leader needs it, is crucial. Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. I can't comment on whether this is similar to the DMM Pivot since I haven't got one of those to try. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. A life outdoors is a life well lived. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Being keen trad climbers we were keen to try this device out after first encountering it at the summer trade show of 2018 - you can see the film below. So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Review Testing was done over two days of climbing using a Petzl Attache carabiner and the Edelrid Tommy Caldwell 9.6mm rope. In the brake assist mode, the large thumb loop is required for rope feed and braking for lowering. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example. Guide mode Will we love the update as much as we loved the original? There is a right way to thread the device depending on which mode you are in. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. This is despite devices like the Alpine Up from Climbing Technology and the earlier Mega Jul version being on the market for several years. You could abseil in brake assist mode, however it becomes very stiff and difficult to feed the rope through especially if you have a lot of rope weight dangling below. The only circumstances you might do this is if you were stripping a pitch of gear or getting in position for some photography but these are advanced techniques that would need some practice. You can ab the normal way with a prussik if you want but the locking mode with an additional krab as a handle works great. The Giga Jul is a smart little belay device from Edelrid that can be used as an assisted braking device or a standard one at the flick of a lever. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. It can also be hung off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. That said, if paired with ropes that are fresh and slippery, it may be possible for a little bit of rope to slip through the device, simply requiring you to grip a little firmer. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. This is slightly tricky to get used to. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and other areas prone to wear are made from robust steel. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. Whether you are sport climbing, trad climbing, abseiling or using it as a guide plate, it needs to be used in different ways - but it is designed to work well for all of them. Rope diameter: 7.1 - 10mm This is well illustrated on the device itself. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. When the leader falls, the device will lock the rope, and the belayer must use the thumb hook to lever up the device, freeing the rope. The Edelrid Giga Jul is an innovative and increadibly versatile belay device. Because you have the device the other way up, the thumb loop is held out of the way upwards and two grooves come into play at the lower end of the device to aid with braking. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. At the flip of a switch, the Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device changes from a standard tube device to an assisted braking device for more versatility whether you're climbing multi-pitch or sport. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. Top Rope Belay . While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. You can also use a carabiner as a lever arm clipped into the small eye hole on the back to aid with this process, not shown in this photo. The idea of guide mode is that it turns a conventional belay device into a brake assist device for bringing up climbers following a pitch - like a 'guide' would do - however the Giga Jul already has a brake assist mode so is it a slightly superfluous function of the device? In manual mode, again, it … There is a right and a wrong way to thread the device but, as long as you are in manual mode, then both will work safely. Giga Jul Technical Specifications: Once again this is very straightforward and operation is just like most standard twin rope belay devices. Fast despatch as standard, next day delivery available. GearLab is reader-supported. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. I've done the majority of my climbing for the last 5 years I guess now with a Mega Jul, including lots of abseiling. There was nothing noticeably better or worse about using this device compared to say a Black Diamond ATC or a Mammut Smart. All trademarks property of their respective owners The only difficulty with this is subtle manipulation of the ropes independent of each other - so taking in with one rope and paying out with the other at the same time is almost impossible. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Overall, the Mega Jul is a cleverly designed belay device that does things that similar looking devices do not, whilst offering more security. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. The most versatile ever belay device. We have used it for sport climbing, trad climbing and abseiling, so those are the main areas we will focus on here. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. How can we improve GearLab? It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. Name: Mega Jul Sport … The last thing you want is a rope locking when you don't want it to. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. I discussed it with Edelrid though and they did comment that it locks up as most guide plates do and needs an extra crab to leverage the release. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. Got feedback? Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. The Edelrid HMS Strike is a strong keylock screwgate carabiner with a compact body and low weight. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. While it takes a few pitches to learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this technique becomes pretty simple. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Assisted braking belay devices help catch a leader fall by doing some of the braking work for you. For this reason you are rarely likely to use it when belaying a leader; however bringing up a second is a different matter. Luckily, there are the standard hand and climber pictures on each side of the device to denote which way to load it properly. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - image-1600550567017.JPG - image-1600550603040.JPG. The Giga Jul is a brilliant and versatile device. The most versatile ever belay device. As the owner of this website, I tracked down special deals for some products or services mentioned herein. With an i ntelligent hybrid design, the Edelrid Giga Jul can either be used in guide mode or assisted guide mode, which offers a brake boost for catching falls. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. Visually the Giga Jul is similar in size, or slightly bigger, to a lot of guide plates that are now available - but with a larger thumb loop. This operates in the same way as the Mega Jul. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. With a bit of practice this can be relatively easy but perhaps not as smooth as some single rope brake assist devices on the market. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. In September Black Diamond and Visit Innsbruck teamed up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the World Youth Championships. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Buy Edelrid - Giga Jul now at Dick's Climbing. James Thomson started this discussion 8 weeks ago. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. The most versatile ever belay device. In assisted braking mode, the rope is pinched between the carabiner and the device in much the same manner as almost every other passive assisted device. See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop. Rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it. The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. Oct 17, 2018 ... Post a Reply to "Edelrid Giga Jul" Log In to Reply. An alternative method is to lower your braking hand on the trailing rope and then use your other upper hand to tip the device up to release. Try and pull the rope through the device without holding the trailing rope and it will pretty much lock. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. The different modes give you plenty of options depending on the circumstances and this could be the one-stop-shop single belay device for all types of climbing you do from sport, through multi-pitch trad, to alpine. Check the video for a full explanation of how it works . Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. This doesn't mean that you can belay without your brake hand but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is. It's also functional in guide mode for direct belaying fom an anchor, making it great for alpine and multi-pitch use with double/twin ropes. The 6.9mm Flycatcher rope—you read that diameter right—is so thin that Edelrid had to invent a new belay device to handle it: the Micro Jul. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. The most versatile ever belay device according to Edelrid. It is great to see Edelrid coming up with new devices that are not just fancy gizmos with a new feature or two that you may or may not appreciate, but real innovative developments that actually make climbing easier and safer. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. The Giga Jul works perfectly well for sport climbing in manual mode as well, which you might choose on long pitches to reduce drag to your leader, or for a particular redpoint where super fast rope feed was required for certain gripper-clips. The Giga Jul claims to work on ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm. The Click Up+ is an updated version of the popular Click Up. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Recommended use: Alpine Climbing, Sport Climbing Suitable for: men, women Construction: Belay, Rappel Devices ; tube, belay device ; suitable for rope type: single rope, half rope, twin rope ; suitable for rope diameters: 7.8 – 10.0 mm ; Features: with stand mount Weight: 100 g Awards: tested by Bergzeit . The Revo makes belaying simple, safe and more intuitive. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. So whilst brake assist devices have virtually taken over for most single rope sport climbing scenarios, hardly anyone uses them for trad climbing. This makes paying out a two-handed procedure since you have to use the thumb loop to hold the back of the device upright to allow free feed of the rope. Well, for us, it fills a hole left in the range by the assisted-braking only policy adopted by Edelrid, and that is an assisted braking device with a conventional belay option built in. While you can belay, lower, or rappel in either assisted or manual modes, we most often found ourselves lead belaying in assisted mode, belaying the second using the auto-block, and rappelling in manual with a prussik backup. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Basic sport climbing holding position with the thumb in the thumb loop, Fast feed position with the thumb pulling upwards on the thumb loop, Locked for fall or lowering is natural with the hand already in position through the thumb loop, Alternative method for lowering keeping the brake hand lower and tilting the device with your other hand to give better control, Double rope use in locked position with the thumb loop upwards and out of the way, Independent feed of the ropes for technical belaying while trad climbing. Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. In both manual and assisted brake mode the device performed as expected. It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega Jul works rather well and is particularly versatile. The Giga Jul weighs 4.3 ounces, which isn't too heavy but is almost double the weight of some other auto-block belay devices designed for multi-pitching. On our independent scale the Giga Jul weighted 4.3 ounces, which is pretty light, but a fair bit heavier than comparable devices we compared it against. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. The switch between modes is simple - just slide the moveable bar on the device from one end to the other indicated by text and arrows on the device. It is a light, small, durable, and multi-function device. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can retain better control with your braking hand. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. As I've already implied, one of the main problems with brake assist belay devices is that you don't always want brake assist. The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. VIDEO from Weigh My Rack: Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. The added toggle switch adds a little bit of weight, but the main difference is in the stainless steel inserts in high wear areas, that ensure a longer life span for the Giga Jul. All rights reserved. With the other hand, the belayer pulls slack through the device. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. On stiff and furry indoor wall ropes it is sluggish and difficult to use but, let's face it, everything is! Lowering a climber in assist mode requires keeping upward pressure on the thumb loop, or using a separate carabiner threaded through the release hole on the back for leverage, and takes a bit of effort and is also fairly jerky. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. We used it on a 9.8mm Sterling Velocity single rope, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry. The Giga Jul has a specific metal carabiner loop so that it can be clipped directly to the anchor for belaying up a second in auto-block mode. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. The Giga Jul is the latest in Edelrid’s assisted braking device range. Its increased durability also adds to the value. Beal ORIENT EXPRESS is a unidirectional screw locking karabiner designed for use with belay plates where the ropes pass through the karabiner. We used it exclusively on a pair of 8.5mm Beal Opera ropes for double rope climbing. Sport Climbing with a Single Rope Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. We haven't used it much in the alpine guide mode which isn't a common use in the UK - although we will look at that briefly in this review. For the most part, you would only ever abseil in manual mode. A Hybrid mix of aluminium and steel keeps the Giga Jul light and robust. Public discussion This is a public discussion in World. So overall for sport climbing, operation is similar to a lot of devices on the market that give brake assist based on trapping the rope between the crab and the device. This poses the question - what happens if you thread it the wrong way when in brake assist mode? Lowering. These fed well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, including in brake assist mode. Everyone we know belays the second on multi-pitches using auto-block, so we can't imagine a functional multi-pitch device that doesn't allow this usage. I have tried this in a simulated set up and it does function as expected although getting the extra crab into place is a little fiddly. Let us know! In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. The hole seen here at the bottom of the device is for clipping a carabiner nose to in order to use it as a lever arm when lowering or rappelling in assist mode or auto-block mode. We tried it out and discovered that guide mode only works in manual mode - the rope totally locks in brake assist mode. This just illustrates the versatility of the device. Started: 8 weeks ago on Sat 19th Sep 2020 World . The most versatile ever belay device. In the Alps though it is more common. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. Abseil To use in assisted brake mode the slider is moved to the 'top' of the plate, while the thumb loop allows for smooth playing out when belaying a leader. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. The catch and bit provided by the Giga Jul in assisted braking mode is very effective at stopping the rope firmly in place, and holding it there as the climber rests. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. In manual mode though it works perfectly as any guide mode device would do and is probably slightly better than using the device set up for conventional brake assist if the fixed belay is high.

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